The Hugo is the Alpine spritz, created in South Tyrol in the mid-2000s: elderflower, mint, lime and bubbles. It is paler, lighter and far less bitter than the Venetian spritzes. In this alcohol-free version, Sober Spirits G 0.0% replaces the usual prosecco-and-gin base and carries the floral notes.

Sober Spirits G 0.0%, the alcohol-free gin alternative. The Hugo is a floral, elderflower-led drink: a bitter red aperitif would clash with it entirely. If a recipe tells you to make a Hugo with a bitter aperitivo, it is wrong.

Yes, in late spring: steep about twenty elderflower heads with the juice and zest of two lemons in a litre of sugar syrup for twenty-four hours, then strain and bottle. Pick the flowers in dry weather, well away from roads, and shake them out rather than washing them, since the aroma sits in the pollen.

Everything except the bubbles. The Aperol Spritz is orange, bittersweet and built on a bitter aperitif; the Hugo is pale, floral and built on elderflower, with mint and lime. The Hugo is the one to reach for when bitterness is not welcome, and it is markedly lighter on the palate.

A large balloon glass, as for any spritz. The wide bowl holds enough ice to keep the drink cold without over-diluting it, and it concentrates the elderflower and mint aromas towards the nose. A tall tumbler works but loses most of the perfume, which is the point of a Hugo.